Battambang to Siem Reap/Angkor Wat

From Kampot I passed back through Phnom Penh  and headed north,  close to the Thai border, where I encountered Battambang (city of the missing stick-look it up, it's a nice fable). As is normal-my best experiences cannot be photographed, so please allow this to suffice: my first day there I made friends with an Aussie and we set out determined to find some rapids...those turned out to be VERY difficult to find and not nearly as awesome as the name pronounced. So we headed even closer to the border to look for Blue Mountain Waterfalls. We found some waterfall-again not really living up to its name, but still had a nice afternoon swimming and having some beers. Unfortunately somewhere along the line the key to our motorbike got lost and after searching the grass and riverbank for an hour we (well really my new friend) pushed the motorbike at least a mile or so looking for help. (sorry-too long-I'll shorten this up). We ended up finding a family who graciously called around and found a locksmith to come and make us a key that night. They were so kind and generous and we will forever be grateful that we weren't stuck for the night either out on the mountain or so far from our hostel. Even though it was for a slightly frustrating situation-we had a great time meeting these people and experiencing their hospitality. 

The next day was much less dramatic. We visited a temple on  a large hill and I couldn't help but snap this picture of this monk on his phone (not very monk-like right?). I did feel a bit embarrassed having him see me, so I   pretended was taking a picture of the temple.

I shouldn't have felt embarrassed. because a short time later, as we were about to enter a cafe this monk and some other asked to take pictures with us! If you think I look a bit stiff it's because about 5 seconds before this picture I attempted to put my arm around the monk and he nearly fell over trying to get away from me. Monks cannot touch members of the opposite sex. I saw this again a few days later while bordering a bus. The only empty seat was next to a monk and when  female passenger got on she was pacing the bus before the driver asked someone to switch with her so that another male was sitting with the monk. 

This nasty guy was inside the cave. I zoomed in a bit because I didn't want to get too close but to give you a rough idea-he's at least the size of my hand and once his legs are stretched out-even bigger! (Mike-remember those scorpion like spiders we saw in Mexico? This reminded me of them.)

After the temple, cave, and a short stop at a winery (where we were served several sips of wine, a few of brandy, and two shots of juice) we went to Phnom Sapov (Ship Mountain) to see the Killing Caves (similar to the killing caves and just as sad) and BAT CAVE! Here you can see just a few of the hundreds of thousands of bats that fly out of the properly named Bat Cave on a nightly basis at sunset. (finally something lived up to its name!)  

We watched this scene for nearly half and hour and didn't even stay til then end so that we could catch a glimpse of the line as it flew across the ricee paddies.

The next day was spent in town, doing a self guided tour of some of the French inspired architecture that still stands. But no really good shots there. However, I did feel inspired to take this photo. What mini-mart/corner store doesn't have an abundance of coconuts ready for sipping and gasoline in the glass and plastic water or coke bottles off in the back?

We did pass through a Buddhist temple and I loved seeing the orange cloths of the monks hanging out to dry in the sun (looks like these guys know how to do their own laundry-I wonder if women can touch their clothes?)

That night we went to the Phare Ponleu Selpak Circus. Originally it was a school teaching physical education and martial arts as a form of therapy for many young people who were suffering from effects of the Khmer Rouge reign. Later it developed-providing classes in all forms of performing arts and is the training ground for students interested in being in the circus. The school puts on several performances a week and we were able to see several students perform with some of the more professionals who travel the world. 

They had several clowns as hosts, juggles, acrobats, a guy on a unicycle, another using the Diablo, and lots of fire action. I think I had a smile on my face for the whole hour performance. Also people say that the main circus located in Siem Reap (my next stop) was much better, I enjoyed watching some of these young people (mid to late teens) as they practiced and exhibited their skills. There were a number of mistakes, but they always picked themselves (or the juggling pins) up and tried again.

Another day we rented bicycles and cycled north of the city to see some ruins. But it was the trip there and back that I most enjoyed. We saw a wedding in progress (earlier that morning on a run I'd seen a procession of people on a road and when I questioned the guest house owner she confirmed that it was a wedding and not a funeral which I was slightly afraid it was). This tent was set up along/IN the road where we were riding. It added some traffic but all in the name of love.

I think I mentioned before but the kids here are so cute and lovable!  If I had a cent for every smile, wave or hello I got I could keep traveling for months to come. 

Case in point. 

This was my little guide across this rickety old bridge that I  insisted on cycling over even though some of the locals suggested otherwise. She followed me the whole way and then said goodbye and headed off. The next day I saw her back in town riding past the local market-I think she nearly fell off her bike when she saw me and realized that I recognized her. 

 

Welcome to AngkorWat-the world's single largest religious site in the world at 400 square km or 124 square miles. The temples were all built between the 9th and 15th centuries by the Khmer Kingdom. And as you can see Angkor is the name of one of the top consumed beers in the country. This beer was a gift to me that I received while stopping for a snack after my first day of biking around the park. I heard a man's voice, "lady, lady" and when I turned he offered me a can. We toasted each other, discussed that he is from Siem Reap (the town that leads to the park) and that he is a motorbike drive. That was as far as we got. But the cold beer was much appreciated after a long, hot day.

Here I am on top of the highest peak in the Angok Wat temple (this temple gave the name to the whole complex being as it is the largest and best conserved). This is the third level of the complex-representing the heavens. Inside this tower were four pools used for purification before entering the gallery. The four pools represent the four elements-earth, air, water and fire.

I gave in and used my timer to snap a picture. 

Does this look familiar? I felt like Lara Croft (and my two travel buddies for the day called me so) as we explored this temple and others, where the Tomb Raider was filmed. 

How many faces can you see? Bayon Temple contains MANY faces carved into the towers,. but the faces that stare at you from the main towers symbolize the four sublime states of Buddhism including Charity, Compassion, Sympathy and Equanimity.

T

Reconstruction in progress-many of the individual sites are currently under reconstruction. It was common to have areas closed off or to see things like this-wooden structures supporting the stone ones. (Marty-doesn't this remind you of some of the doorways in the basement?)

I found Indian Jones!!!!!

I could go on and on with pictures of the temples (I spent 3 days there total) but I'll give you a break. I found this sign funny because happy hour is huge in Southeast Asia but they've taken it to a new extreme! 10a.m. until close?! I did go there one afternoon while I working on the blog and try their G&Ts-not bad I have to admit-but not as good as the ones I mixed at MJs.

I did it! I ate the tarantula! I even asked for the big one which took several bikes to finish but I didn't let any go to waste!